<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:g-custom="http://base.google.com/cns/1.0" version="2.0">
  <channel>
    <title>electriclaboratorieswebsiteredesign</title>
    <link>https://www.electriclaboratories.com</link>
    <description />
    <atom:link href="https://www.electriclaboratories.com/feed/rss2" type="application/rss+xml" rel="self" />
    <item>
      <title>MY CAR ENGINES STALLS --AND THE STARTER CRANKS BUT WON'T START</title>
      <link>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-my-car-engines-stalls---and-the-starter-cranks-but-won-t-start-</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
                      
           #startercranksbutwontstart #TIPM #sunroofleak
          
                    &#xD;
    &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;
&lt;div&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;img src="https://irp.cdn-website.com/ff737b45/dms3rep/multi/DodgeDurangoSunroof.jpg" alt="Dodge Durango Sunroof | Electric Laboratories"/&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;
&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
        
                        
            This was a Dodge Durango that was having phantom electrical issues. Our technician did a full diagnostic on the vehicle and discovered a leak coming from the sunroof drain tube and followed it to where it was draining to. Turns out it was leaking water onto the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).  This is the nerve-center of your car’s electronics and it distributes power to everything from safety to ignition systems. The fix here was to replace the drain tube and install and program a new module. 
           
                      &#xD;
      &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;/p&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;</content:encoded>
      <pubDate>Fri, 01 Dec 2017 08:55:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-my-car-engines-stalls---and-the-starter-cranks-but-won-t-start-</guid>
      <g-custom:tags type="string" />
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>MY CAR BATTERY CONTINUES TO DRAIN?</title>
      <link>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-my-car-battery-continues-to-drain--</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
                      
           #compressorclutch #clutchrelay #paperclip
          
                    &#xD;
    &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;
&lt;div&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;img src="https://irp.cdn-website.com/ff737b45/dms3rep/multi/relayclutch.jpg" alt="Relay clutch | Electric Laboratories"/&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;
&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
                      
           The other day we had a '07 Ford F150 with a battery drain. We did a full diagnostic on the vehicle and noticed a "heavy clicking" sound coming from the air compressor clutch. Some of the reasons why the compressor clutch may not engage are due to mechanical failures, electric failures or low pressure freon levels. We disconnected the battery cable, opened the fuse and relay box to locate the relay for the Air Conditioner. When we pulled the relay, this is what we found. A paperclip, had been added to the fuse as a way of overriding the computer to bypass the relay. For the safety of yourself and others we highly recommend against this method of repair. For one, the factory system is more or less designed to turn off the fuel pump relay in the event of a collision and/or the relay may fail during acceleration on the highway. The minimal cost of a relay by far outweighs any possible dangerous outcomes.
          
                    &#xD;
    &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;/p&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;</content:encoded>
      <pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:56:09 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-my-car-battery-continues-to-drain--</guid>
      <g-custom:tags type="string" />
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>IS A COURTESY CHECK NECESSARY IF I'M JUST BRINGING MY CAR IN FOR ONE SPECIFIC PROBLEM?</title>
      <link>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-is-a-courtesy-check-necessary-if-i-m-just-bringing-my-car-in-for-one-specific-problem--</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
                      
           A customer came in last week stating his blower was not working. After checking the blower circuit we found the blower control amplifier defective and replaced it. As a serivce to our customers we always do a Courtesy Check on all vehicles which includes a 50 point inside and out inspection. We check everything from the head lights, under the hood to under the vehicle and the brakes and tires. We found his tire tread to be below recommended specifications. We notified our customer and he chose to wait on the tire replacement. We phoned him 3 days later to thank him for his service and unfortunately he had a tire blow out 2 days after leaving the shop. Fortunately, he was ok and able to get the repair done quickly and get back on the road. We hate to see this kind of thing happen after someone leaves our shop but it's our job to inform the customer about EVERYTHING that is going on with their vehicle. It's our job and our moral obligation.
          
                    &#xD;
    &lt;/span&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;/p&gt;&#xD;
&lt;/div&gt;</content:encoded>
      <pubDate>Thu, 08 Sep 2016 08:56:51 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.electriclaboratories.com/-is-a-courtesy-check-necessary-if-i-m-just-bringing-my-car-in-for-one-specific-problem--</guid>
      <g-custom:tags type="string" />
    </item>
  </channel>
</rss>
